In a previous post, I showed how I made Pam Reid‘s lap stand using PVC pipe & fittings. Using it was finicky and giving me back aches from bad posture, so I modified it to be a floor stand instead. Whichever version you decide to make, both are inexpensive and a life saver.
My lap stand ended up costing me $19.10 in materials and my floor stand modifications were $8.40.
Total Project Cost: ~$27.00
If you haven’t seen the first post, you can find it and the tutorial video here.
These are the materials I used for my original lap stand:
6 x 90° joints
2 x 45° joints
2 x T joints
4 x 2″ length
2 x 8″ length
3 x 20″ length (how wide you want your working area to be)
2 x 11″ length (how tall you want your working area to be)
1 set (of 2) replacement Q Snap clamps, 8 1/2″
1 set (of 2) replacement Q Snap clamps, 14 1/2″
To make the floor stand, I used all of the same pieces except for the two 8″ lengths (the bottom legs) so if you are skipping making a lap stand and only making the floor stand version, you won’t need them at all.
2 x 90° joints (8 total)
2 x 12″ length (these will replace the 8″ legs)
2 x 40″ length (this will determine how tall your stand is)
For the new leg measurement, I used 12″ because I thought it would be enough of a base without being top heavy. I’m not too worried about it, because I’m doing it “scorpion style” (rather than “S” style, if that makes sense) and the bottom will be pushed under my arm chair, so it will be more secure. Do what works best for you here!
To determine how tall I wanted it to be, I held my lap stand in front of me upside down at about the height I wanted it to be and had my boyfriend measure the distance from the bottom (now the top) – the little 2″ pieces – to the floor.
Here it is! The two pieces on the floor are the 8″ leg pieces I won’t be needing anymore. Note that since I switched it to be in a hanging position, my work is upside down now and I have to re-snap it.
And here it is all set up in my stitchy spot and ready to go! I got lucky and the width of it just barely slides under my chair. The nice thing about this modification is that it’s so cheap, if you decide you want something a little smaller or a little taller it’s no problem at all.
I’m excited to try it out! No more awkward lap-balancing acts with the stand, better posture, and hopefully less sore shoulders for me (:
-Since it is hanging and the pieces are prone to coming apart, I do recommend using some sort of light, non-permanent adhesive like tacky spray in the joins to keep it more secure, though I haven’t had many issues yet.
-I may in the future add another cross bar either in the middle of the 40″ pieces or at the tops. It is steady enough as it is, but a little more reinforcements wouldn’t hurt. If you wanted to do this, there are two options:
- Reinforce in the middle – Instead of getting two 40″ pieces, get four 20″ pieces, one extra cut of your frame width piece (mine happens to also be 20″), and two three-way “T” shaped connectors. Put the “T” connectors in the middle of your 40″ legs (20″ + “T” + 20″) and connect the two “T”s with the width piece. The legs should look more like an H instead of being free-standing and wobbly.
- Reinforce at the top – Get 4 cuts of your frame width piece instead of 3 (so mine would need four 20″) and instead of the two 90° joints, get the three-way connectors that look like this:
Also – I keep meaning to make a tutorial for the grime guard but I’ve been lazy :p coming soon.